Spotlight: James Lamb Origin Azur

I first learned of James Lamb Watches a little over a year ago. The watches created really caught my eye for two main reasons.

Firstly, was that the cases for each watch can be requested to be specific sizes – that is to say, they don’t all come in the same 38mm case size for example. Instead, James Lamb offers the customer the chance to choose their own case sizes between 37.75mm and 39.5mm, in increments of 0.25mm!

Secondly, was the choice to offer the watches in a silver case. I was particularly curious about this as silver is not often used in watchmaking owing to its tendency to tarnish. Speaking with James, I was able to ask about this, and he explained that the silver he uses is trademarked as Argentium silver, which is different to sterling silver in a few ways.

Argentium was developed by British silversmith Peter Johns who created a silver that was more pure, harder, brighter and tarnish resistant than sterling silver, making it far more amenable for use in watches.

You can check out my interview with James here.

It was a while later, but I did get to check out one of James’ watches in person at a collectors’ event in London with The Limited Edition. Being able to see it close-up was fantastic; the craftsmanship on the case was very impressive, and there is something about an enamel dial that I find endlessly fascinating.

James mentioned in our interview that he was working on a second, more limited series, coming either at the very end of 2022 or early 2023. Unbeknownst to me, that series was being worked on in collaboration with my partners at The Limited Edition and Collective Horology in the US, a specialist in creating collaboration watches for watch enthusiasts.

Learning of this week’s launch was a nice surprise – seeing a watchmaker I had interviewed a while ago now working directly with my partners is really great to see!

Let’s see what they came up with!

James Lamb Watches Origin ‘Azur’ by James Lamb x Collective Horology x The Limited Edition

To begin with, I should make it clear that whilst I have been able to try the Origin Series ‘Water’, I haven’t been able to see the Origin ‘Azur’ in person, or try it on, at the time of writing. If that changes, I will give this an update!

Above all else, the thing that I especially love about this is the eye-catching colour of the dial. In person I can well imagine that with the richness of colour afforded by enamel dials, that this almost an electric-blue colour would be even better than in the photos!

The subtle geometric pattern design is created firstly with a laser engraving, and then the enamelwork is applied over the top of this, accentuating the pattern by using a range of different, yet similar tones of blue. This design both surrounds and contrasts the slightly off-centre white subdial – handmade in ceramic by James Lamb in his workshop.

Whilst visually the star of the show is of course the stunning blue dial, with James Lamb Watches the real secret is in the cases themselves as I alluded to earlier. Finding an independent watchmaker who creates their own cases by hand is pretty rare in itself, even more so creating them by these methods.

James Lamb’s process for creating a case starts out with flat stock Argentium silver bullion, which is then worked using his skills as a silversmith using nothing but hand tools, a lathe and fire, to manipulate the silver into its final form as a watch case. The lugs are made separately, using the same methods and from the same material before they are eventually soldered onto the case.

Not only that, but Lamb also creates his own dial blanks, dial feet, winding crown and more using the same methods, which is quite incredible.

With the 12-piece Origin ‘Azur’, the case for each is the goldilocks size of 39mm. There is also a special caseback which is laser engraved with a pattern as well as some geometric designs akin to that seen on the dial, and whilst each piece is not specifically numbered on the caseback it is adorned with “ONE OF TWELVE” and “ORIGIN AZUR”.

Being forged of Argentium silver, the caseback is also hallmarked by the London Assay Office, affirming the materials used and the mark of James Lamb as the maker of the watches. For me, I find this kind of decoration on the caseback especially interesting to see!

Assuming that the Origin ‘Azur’ wears similarly to the Origin ‘Water’ that I have tried previously, it was very comfortable on the wrist (my wrist circumference is 17cm) and not at all too big, and the added weight from using silver was not at all overbearing with the leather strap – to that end, the Origin ‘Azur’ is presented on a dark blue leather strap which compliments the dial with a subtle contrast which works really well.

The movement inside is a premium grade Sellita SW-210, a manual wind movement with 42 hours of power reserve when fully wound. This is also fixed inside the case using a silver spacer again fabricated by James Lamb!

I hope that I will be fortunate enough one day to see one of these. I think it looks to be a truly special piece, and I really want to see what the dial is like in person.

In Summary

To my mind, the craft and skill that goes into James Lamb’s watches is incredible. With an appreciation of what goes into crafting these watches, I think comes a greater overall appreciation of the watch as a complete and finished product. This was the sense that I experienced when handling the Origin ‘Water’ – I was studying the case intently, and the overall finish was incredible, truly an artisanal watch.

Also, for me personally, it is really cool to see that a watchmaker I have interviewed just over a year ago releasing a collaboration piece with my now partners The Limited Edition and also with Collective Horology.

There will be 12 pieces of the Origin ‘Azur’, priced £7300 / US$8900 excluding taxes, with 6 available via the following links at The Limited Edition and Collective Horology, who can also provide more information.

To learn more about James Lamb, please visit JamesLambWatches.com or follow James Lamb Watches on Instagram.

If you have any questions, please get in touch via our Contact page, or via our Instagram.

 

You might also be interested in:

• In Conversation with James Lamb
• Exploring different watch enamelling techniques
• Watch Finishing Techniques
• Watch Stationery and Gift Ideas
• Watch Books, Watch Boxes and more at the Watch Affinity Shop on Amazon (commissions earned)

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