Independent Watchmaking – An Ode to the Indies

For this article I wanted to do something a little different and explore independent watchmaking. This area is rapidly becoming a hugely important sector in the watch industry and in my recent interview with Jean-Claude Biver, he described it the tendency towards independents as a “natural process that is now accelerating and becoming bigger and bigger, so the independents have a lot of happy days in the future”. So, what exactly is independent watchmaking and why is it so important?

What is independent watchmaking?

Generally speaking, independent watchmaking is a term used to describe smaller, more artisanal watch manufacturers, which tend to have a small production output of less than a few thousand pieces a year – and in some cases even less than 100 pieces a year. These manufacturers operate as their own entity, perhaps under the guise of a particular watchmaker in the case of a namesake brand, or perhaps a smaller company outfit.

There are, quite literally, thousands of watch brands out there. As we creep towards the luxury end of the market, you may or may not be aware that the vast majority of well-known brands are in fact owned by much larger corporate groups.

For example, the Swatch Group is the largest and owns 18 watch brands, including names such as Breguet, Blancpain, Harry Winston, Omega, Longines, Hamilton, and – of course – Swatch.

Another example is the Richemont Group, which owns brands including Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, IWC Schaffhausen, and Cartier. Other groups operating multiple brands include the LVMH Group, Kering Group and Seiko Group.

Independent watchmaking is quite the opposite. These smaller entities tend to run with much greater operational freedom and can be both more disruptive and creative than those in a corporate environment, accountable to shareholders.

Some of the biggest brands in the world are family owned and therefore technically independent, too, including Audemars Piguet which is still owned by the Audemars family, Patek Philippe which is owned by the Stern family, and even Rolex which is owned by the Fondation Hans Wilsdorf.

Why do watchmakers go independent?

There are plenty of examples of individuals who have taken the decision to work for themselves and go independent, such as Max Büsser, Ludovic Ballouard, Vianney Halter and Laurent Ferrier to name but a few. I have had the immense fortune to have spoken with some of these individuals, and for every single one of those who spent the earlier parts of their careers working in larger watchmaking manufacturers, the overriding reasons for them going independent have always been the creative freedom it affords them, especially compared to the more corporate world, along with the direct relationships that they can build with their clients.

Be sure to check out my interviews to get their first hand views!

The ability to take what they have learned in their careers and apply their own creative spin shines through in abundance in their work. Independent watchmakers and brands produce watches like no others across the entire industry, which in turn leads to a real sense of exclusivity, personality, and uniqueness. The opportunity to own a watch that you will never see on anybody else’s wrist. Where else would you find watches that were inspired, at least in part, by a jellyfish or Star Wars?!

This creativity is not only about out-of-the-box inspirations, but also the freedom to apply their craft in their own way.

Laurent Ferrier had a thirty-year career at Patek Philippe, culminating in a technical director position. However, he also has a deep-rooted passion for motorsport and in fact raced in the Le Mans 24-hour race. His watches are very classical as one might expect given his stellar career at Patek Philippe, however they are unmistakably Laurent Ferrier in their execution.

Ludovic Ballouard is a technical genius, and his Upside Down and Half-Time watches display time in a way that is both thoughtful and creative. An incredibly gifted watchmaker, Ludovic worked early in his career for Franck Muller and even F.P. Journe, before setting out on his own to bring the technical ideas percolating in his mind to life.

What about independent watch brands?

Independent watchmaking is not all about individuals who have worked at larger manufacturers setting out on their own. Many independent brands operate without a namesake watchmaker, born of a design idea rather than having had a technical watchmaking career at larger manufacturers, or perhaps a small team where an individual watchmakers and entrepreneurs join forces.

A super example of a brand born of particular design ideas is Ressence, founded by industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, with the aim of improving the overall experience of wearing a watch, and the way that time is displayed. Ressence has not only removed the need for a crown, but they have introduced a totally unique concept of mechanically driven rotating discs for the dial instead of hands, in addition to their e-Crown technology and even introducing oil under the sapphire crystal of the dial, eliminating refraction when the watch is underwater.

One of my personal favourite independent brands is H. Moser & Cie. The history of the brand can be traced back to its 1828 when it was founded by Heinrich Moser. He went on to establish a lucrative business including manufacture, retail and servicing of watches, before passing away in 1874. His company was sold and in 1918 was expropriated during the Russian Revolution.

The brand was formally relaunched as an independent manufacturer in 2005. Today they are best known for their distinctive fumé dials and an innovative approach to watchmaking, which includes a fully in-house production – Moser manufacture every single component themselves, even down to the hairspring.

The reason I particularly like Moser is that they are in a group with very few others who make a concerted effort to inject a little fun into luxury watchmaking. Their Swiss Alp watches are a tongue in cheek poke at Apple Watches, and they even produced a concept piece unique with a tourbillon and minute repeater… but no hands. Yes, no hands – the only way to know the time is to activate the minute repeater!

In addition to these, Moser craft in my opinion some of the most exquisite timepieces as well. Their dials are stunning to the point that they are instantly recognisable even with no branding or logo, and their movements are always visible and beautifully decorated. If Moser was not an independent brand, I don’t imagine we would see the fun side of CEO Edouard Meylan channelled in the ways we do, embracing the fun side of watchmaking.

Watch Affinity partners with The Limited Edition

As smaller entities, independent watchmakers and brands are far more susceptible than those with corporate backing to the economic effects that will inevitably be felt following the Covid-19 pandemic, and so I felt it was important for me to try and do something to help.

As a result, I am absolutely delighted to announce Watch Affinity will be partnering with Pietro Tomajer at The Limited Edition, an authorised retailer specialising in independent watchmaking with over 40 brands available to purchase, who was also this year added the GPHG Academy. The Limited Edition have even worked directly with manufacturers on behalf of clients to collaborate on unique pieces for collectors, too.

This partnership will bring to you regular articles dedicated to shining the Watch Affinity Spotlight on an independent watchmaker or brand, in an effort to showcase both the brand and their timepieces and spread the word. Pandemic-pending, perhaps even coverage of some exciting events, too!

Be sure to mention “Watch Affinity” when speaking with the team at The Limited Edition to receive a small gift with any order!

In Summary

I hope you have enjoyed this ode to independent watchmaking and are as excited as I am about Watch Affinity partnering with The Limited Edition. In the coming months, I look forward to shining the spotlight on some smaller independent brands.

Be sure to visit The Limited Edition to learn more (and don’t forget to mention “Watch Affinity” to the team when you do)!

If you have any questions, please get in touch via our Contact page, or via our Instagram.

You might also be interested in:

• The Watchmakers Club 2019, Independent Watchmaking
• In Conversation with Vianney Halter
• What Inspires Watch Designs?
• Watch Stationery and Gift Ideas
• Watch Books, Watch Boxes and more at the Watch Affinity Shop on Amazon (commissions earned)

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