Spotlight: Grand Seiko SBGM221

In the world of GMT complications, there are a few watches that automatically spring to mind – perhaps most notably those from the brand with the crown. Previously, I have looked at the GMT complication and the different ways that it has been implemented by the countless different brands looking at some specific examples.

Despite its popularity, the GMT complication is not one that sits high on my personal wish-list, which I am sure places me in somewhat of a minority group, but there is one particular GMT watch that I have always had a soft spot for – the Grand Seiko SBGM221. What makes this even weirder from a personal perspective, is that whilst I understand and appreciate what it is about Grand Seiko that makes it such a popular brand with watch collectors, there are but a few Grand Seiko watches that I personally tend towards.

And yet, here I am writing about a GMT complication watch from Grand Seiko which is one I really do like! But then again, when did anyone say that things in this hobby actually make sense…

Grand Seiko

Firstly, let’s just take a brief look at Grand Seiko as a brand (I’ve written more on that here), and the ethos behind the watches, as I think that this is an underlying reason as to why this piece particularly appeals to me.

The Seiko Group in Japan first started talking about the idea of a ‘Grand Seiko’ at the end of the 1950s. The original intent was to challenge the idea of Swiss watches as superior to Japanese watches, by creating a timepiece of higher quality, accuracy and finish than its competitors – the Grand Seiko would be held to higher standards they knew they were capable of realising.

There were nine key design principles of Grand Seiko, firmly established in 1967 with the arrival of the first watch, the 44GS. These include:

• a double-width index at 12 o’clock
• multi-faceted, rectangular indices
• a high-polish bezel
• high-polish planes on the case with a flat surface
• a half-recessed crown
• a flat dial
• multi-faceted hour and minute hands
• curved case sides
• a reverse slanted bezel wall and case side

Most Grand Seiko watches are adorned with a lion emblem on the caseback – the King of the Jungle used to denote the idea of the “King of watches”. These key principles still form the basis for every Grand Seiko timepiece made to this day, with a meticulous attention to detail afforded every single watch.

There are today three collections in the Grand Seiko catalogue – Elegance, Heritage and Sport. The Grand Seiko SBGM221 lies in the Elegance collection, comprising watches with a timeless, classical aesthetic based on the aforementioned key design principles, and is predominantly made up of dress watches.

Regular readers will be aware of my penchant for dress watches… as I have spent time thinking about why this particular watch with a complication I don’t overly long for, from a brand that does not normally appeal to me so strongly – I believe herein lies the link. Normally a GMT complication is included as part of a tool or sports watch, and it is not one so commonly associated with a dressier design, whereas the SBGM221 most certainly is deserving of its place in the Elegance collection.

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM221

As you can see from the above photo, the SBGM221 is not your average looking GMT watch. A refined 39.5mm case in stainless steel with a polished bezel, with a more rounded and less angular case shape underpinning a “dressier” overall aesthetic. The case sounds like it should be quite thick, too, at 13.7mm, but it most certainly doesn’t feel it on the wrist thanks to the downward turning lugs.

However, it isn’t until you get to hold the watch up close that you can fully appreciate the Zaratsu polishing of the case. Whilst the overall shape isn’t overly angular, the profile of the case introduces enough subtle faces and edges that the magnificence of the polishing shines through – I think that with this understated, elegant case design, Grand Seiko have found the perfect balance.

The case is water resistant only to 30m, meaning it is in essence splash-proof. Whilst it might be a minor gripe, it really isn’t a deal-breaker as to all intents and purposes it will be fine, so long as you don’t decide to wear it in the shower or take it for a swim.

In keeping with the original Grand Seiko principles, the dial is perfectly flat except for the ‘GS’ logo, indices and date aperture which allows them to shine. The dial is in a rich, ivory colour which to me conveys a sense of warmth that you wouldn’t get by using white. I think it also serves to soften the razor-sharp finish of the hands, indices and date aperture frame visually almost, whilst simultaneously making them stand out even more.

The colourway is completed with a beautifully blued GMT hand (Grand Seiko perform this bluing process one hand at a time and not in ‘bulk’), bringing a subtle pop of colour to elevate the dial, with the writing and the GMT function numerals printed in black. The overall effect is stunning – the hands and indices reflect a full spectrum of colours from white, to ivory, to black and even if you catch it right the occasional blue, too. It really is a watch that you have to experience in person to fully understand it as I’m not really sure that any words or photos could do it justice.

Inside the watch is the automatic 96SS calibre, visible through the sapphire caseback and complete with Grand Seiko lion (when not obscured by the rotor!), offering up to 72 hours when fully wound. It features a hacking seconds mechanism, and a jumping local hour hand (the silver hand) where you can move the hour forwards or backwards one hour independently of moving the minute hand – moving past midnight, it will trigger the date to update as well. The home hand (the blued, 24-hour hand) will remain on any other time-zone it is set to.

There is no quick-set mechanism for the date, and so if you were to accidentally go one day too far, you would have to move the hour hand past midnight as many times as required to bring the date back to the correct display.

Finally, the watch is presented on a brown crocodile leather strap with deployant clasp, something I always find useful as it really helps to preserve the strap’s condition over a pin and buckle. I think this looks stunning as it is, but the neutral tones on the watch and the splash of blue mean that it suits a wide variety of different strap colours – especially natural tones – if you are inclined to swap your straps around a bit.

In Summary

There is a reason that Grand Seiko watches have won a lot of enthusiast fans over the last few years. Their watches are finished with unquestionable quality and offer exceptional value relative to the watch market. The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM221 is a fantastic looking watch and priced at £4,350 or US $4,600 it really offers a lot of bang for your buck. Oh, and the best bit is that you could walk into a boutique tomorrow, try it on (highly recommended), and buy it with no need for waitlists or an extensive purchase history!

A huge thankyou to @TickerTalker for sharing his photos of the SBGM221, be sure to follow him on Instagram!

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You might also be interested in:

• What is a Dress Watch?
• Spotlight: Grand Seiko
• “It’s complicated”: an introduction to GMT/Travel/Worldtimer Watches
• Watch Stationery and Gift Ideas
• Watch Books, Watch Boxes and more at the Watch Affinity Shop on Amazon (commissions earned)

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