Breguet Marie-Antoinette 160 at London’s Science Museum

When it comes to the world of horology, very few individual timepieces have achieved the notoriety and legendary status of Breguet’s Marie-Antoinette pocket watch, reference 160. Not only does it embody the pinnacle of 18th-century watchmaking, but it offers an insight into Marie-Antoinette and her appreciation of fine craftsmanship, as well as Abraham-Louis Breguet’s strive for perfection.

In recent years the watch has been on display at the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art in Jerusalem, however until Monday 21^st April 2025 it is part of a new exhibit at London’s Science Museum, “Versailles: Science and Splendour”, which is showcasing a number of important exhibits brought together from around the world to highlight the role that science played in the court of Versailles during the 17^th and 18^th Centuries.

As a watch enthusiast, the opportunity to see this iconic piece in real life was too good to pass up – and I think it is an opportunity not to be missed for anyone remotely interested in horology. To explain why, let’s take a quick look at the history of this magnificent pocket watch.

Breguet Marie-Antoinette no 160, “the Grand Complication”

To set the scene, we have to take ourselves back to 18^th Century France, a period of huge social and economic change in France during which time the Palace of Versailles was built and evolved by Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI (the main topic of the exhibit at the Science Museum). The wealth and opulence of the Palace was incredible, in stark contrast to the masses, which ultimately led to the French Revolution between 1789-1799.

Marie-Antoinette, the last Queen of France before the French Revolution, became Queen in 1774 aged just 18 years old, as her husband ascended the throne as Louis XVI. The tale of Breguet’s Marie-Antoinette begun with Marie-Antoinette’s fascination with Breguet’s timepieces. After being introduced to Breguet, she became one of his most ardent admirers and both she and Louis XVI owned many of his pieces. Marie-Antoinette was fascinated by his work, and even requested “a simple Breguet watch” whilst imprisoned in her final years.

In 1783, Breguet was commissioned to make a watch for Marie-Antoinette (interestingly, the individual to place the commission request is not known, although there is speculation that it might have been one of her guards, or some believe it to have been Swedish aristocrat Count Hans Axel von Fersen, a close friend of the French monarchs). The watch was to be made entirely of precious metals, and the most complicated piece to ever have been made, with no time or budget set: “Everywhere, gold must completely replace brass… all of the complications possible and known to be incorporated… no limit on time of manufacture or price”. A gift fit for a Queen with a penchant for luxury and precision, the request was for something that would embody the utmost in both technical complexity and beauty.

Immediately, Breguet set about working on what would become the most complex and ambitious timepiece of his career. However, Marie-Antoinette would never live to see the watch following her execution during the French Revolution in 1793.

Whilst the original order was placed in 1783, the watch itself was not completed until 1827, more than three decades after Marie-Antoinette was executed, and sadly also 4 years after Breguet himself passed away in 1823 at the age of 76. The watch was completed under the supervision of Breguet’s son, Louis-Antoine (who had served an apprenticeship under Breguet’s close friend, John Arnold). When it was completed, the Breguet Marie-Antoinette no.160 was the most complicated timepiece in the world and had cost between 17,000 and 30,000 Francs to make.

I find it astonishing to think that this incredible objet d’art was created in the late 18^th and early 19^th Century. A watch comprising 827 individual parts, 23 complications, incredible complexity, built entirely of 18ct gold and with an unusual (for that era) transparent dial… all without any of the technologies we have today.

After it was completed, with those who commissioned it and the intended recipients long since departed, the watch remained with the Breguet company. The first recorded owner passed away whilst the watch was in for repair, and so in 1838 the Breguet company once again turned custodian. The Breguet Marie-Antoinette exchanged hands between a series of notable collectors beginning with Sir Spencer Brunton in 1887, and ultimately under the custodianship of Sir David Lionel Salomans in 1917. When he passed away, his daughter donated the watch to what would become the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art in Jerusalem.

As if the preceding story of Breguet’s Marie-Antoinette was not enough already, the watch was stolen along with many other exhibits from the museum in 1983. For 23 years, the watch had vanished without a trace, the thief having never been caught. At least, that was until 2006 when the watches were discovered in a vault belonging to a widow’s now-deceased husband, who transpired to be a notorious thief named Na’aman Diller. Once recovered, the watch was returned to the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art, and is once again proudly displayed for all to enjoy.

Interestingly, such was the importance of the Breguet Marie-Antoinette 160, in 2004 (whilst the original remained missing) Nicholas G Hayek challenged the Breguet watchmakers of the time to recreate a replica of the Marie-Antoinette, this time with the reference number 1160, which took 4 years to complete.

What complications does the Breguet Marie-Antoinette have?

A testament to Breguet as one of the greatest ever watchmakers, the Marie-Antoinette would remain the most complicated timepiece in the world for 77 years after it was completed. The complications, built on an automatic movement, include hours minutes and seconds, a perpetual calendar, equation of time, minute repeater, thermometer, power reserve indicator, and a chronograph.

In Summary

Walking through the “Versailles: Science and Splendour” exhibit in the Science Museum was a unique experience, and well worth visiting. Eventually after taking in an incredible number of exhibits (including a full-size rhino), you will enter a room and turn a corner, and spot the unmistakable Breguet Marie-Antoinette tucked away in its own display case.

To experience this piece in person, knowing the story behind it and everything that it means, is nothing short of wonderful. Thinking about the extraordinary effort that went into producing it, with the tools which were available, will never fail to blow my mind.

It’s a watch that I never thought I would get to see in my life and the fact it is here, in London, until April 21^st 2025 is a real treat for anybody remotely interested in horology. I highly recommend a visit, and if you need a little more coaxing, the exhibit itself is just across the hall from the Science Museum’s fantastic Clockmakers Exhibit!

“Versailles: Science and Splendour” is on at London’s Science Museum until Monday 21^st April, with tickets costing just £12.

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